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	<title>HLKphoto.com &#187; camera</title>
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		<title>Micro Four Thirds Cameras</title>
		<link>http://blog.hlkphoto.com/micro-four-thirds-cameras/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.hlkphoto.com/micro-four-thirds-cameras/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jul 2010 01:43:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Heather</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cameras]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[camera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[micro four thirds]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.hlkphoto.com/?p=394</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Compared to existing, which are equipped with non-interchangeable lenses and smaller image sensors, Micro Four Thirds is intended to offer a compact solution with interchangeable lenses and the larger sensor used by Four Thirds DSLRs. Micro Four Thirds cameras are smaller and lighter than Four Thirds and DSLRs, but larger and heavier than compacts. [Read [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="http://i3.squidoocdn.com/resize/squidoo_images/-1/lens11702621_1277229936micro-four-thirds.jpg" style="margin-right:8px" align="left">Compared to existing, which are equipped with non-interchangeable lenses and smaller image sensors, Micro Four Thirds is intended to offer a compact solution with interchangeable lenses and the larger sensor used by Four Thirds DSLRs. Micro Four Thirds cameras are smaller and lighter than Four Thirds and DSLRs, but larger and heavier than compacts. [Read the full article at <a target="_blank" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Micro_Four_Thirds_system">Micro Four Thirds system - Wikipedia</a>.]</p>
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<h2>The Micro Four Thirds System&nbsp;</h2>
<p><img src="http://www.four-thirds.org/en/microft/img/index_img_structure.gif" style="margin-right: 8px;" align="left">The biggest attraction of any SLR camera system is the ability to change lenses. However, if the imaging plane (focal point) varies depending on the angle of view or focal length of each lens, it would not even be possible to focus the subject. To avoid this problem, the imaging plane of all interchangeable lenses is standardized by strictly specifying the length of the flange back, or the distance from the mount plane to the film/image sensor surface.</p>
<p>Digital SLR cameras</span> incorporate more components between the lens and the image sensing material than film SLR cameras, such as the image stabilizer, dust reduction mechanism and low-pass filter. Also, since the viewfinder of an SLR camera requires a mirror box for viewing the real image, the flange back needs to be longer to accommodate the mirror box. Compact cameras do not use the mirror box, so don&#8217;t require a long flange back. These factors have made it difficult to design SLR cameras that are as slim and compact as compact cameras.</p>
<p>However, if a digital SLR camera can be designed to exclusively use Live View for shooting, the mirror box is no longer necessary and the camera can be designed with the kind of slim profile previously considered impossible, without compromising the high picture quality. For example, when an ultra-slim pancake lens is combined with the camera, it can be stored and taken out of the inner pocket of a jacket, allowing the user to benefit from the high picture quality of SLR with a higher degree of freedom.</p>
<p>The Micro Four Thirds System is a new standard based on combining Live View shooting with the Four Thirds System, freeing users from the viewfinder and moving closer to an optimum balance between picture quality and compact size. With the Micro Four Thirds System, more people will be able to enjoy the excitement of interchangeable lenses and system extension capabilities that only SLR photography can offer, while still benefiting from the convenience and high portability of ordinary fixed-lens compact cameras.</p>
<p>Read more @ <a target="_blank" href="http://www.four-thirds.org/en/microft/">Micro Four Thirds Standard</a>.</p>
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<p><a href="http://www.squidoo.com/micro-four-thirds-#module107155331">More videos and info.</a></p>
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		<title>DIY Sensor Cleaning</title>
		<link>http://blog.hlkphoto.com/b-e-f-o-r-e/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.hlkphoto.com/b-e-f-o-r-e/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Mar 2010 18:59:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Heather</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[how to]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photography]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[before and after]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[camera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cleaning]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Copper Hill Images]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[DIY]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[DSLR]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[maintenance]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sensor]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[&#8220;F.A.Q. &#8211; Why should I worry about dust on my sensor? 1) If you shoot macro or landscapes, a clean sensor is a must because dust will start to show even at f/8. As you stop further down to get more DOF, dust bunnies will become extremely obvious in your skies and light backgrounds. 2) [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>&#8220;F.A.Q. &#8211; Why should I worry about dust on my sensor?</strong></p>
<p><strong>1)</strong> If you shoot macro or landscapes, a clean sensor is a must because dust will start to show even at f/8. As you stop further down to get more DOF, dust bunnies will become extremely obvious in your skies and light backgrounds.</p>
<p><strong>2)</strong> What happens if the bulk of your shooting is wide open? Right, dust will not be noticeable, but then what happens if you decide one day to get into macro or landscape shooting? You now have a sensor that&#8217;s never been cleaned and I can tell you without a doubt that getting that sensor spic and span will take a lot of &#8216;scrubbing&#8221;. Quite a few people have had to swab their sensors about 30 times to get it reasonably clean. It&#8217;s a lot easier to keep a regular cleaning regimen just in case you want to expand your photography someday.</p>
<p><strong>3)</strong> A huge accumulation of dust (as in the case above) will cause a decrease in contrast, leading to dull images without any &#8220;pop&#8221;.</p>
<p><strong>4)</strong> TIME &amp; COST &#8211; Although Canon et al. cannot officially endorse any sensor cleaning tool, Chuck Westfall of Canon USA posted this in an Openphotographyforum in April, 2007: &#8220;Your camera&#8217;s low-pass filter can be cleaned by Canon Factory Service or an Authorized Service Facility for a nominal fee. But we would encourage you to explore the possibility of learning how to clean the filter safely on your own. If you&#8217;re successful, it will save you tons of time and money, and it will give you a lot of peace of mind. There are several effective cleaning methods, and each of them has its own group of supporters. I do not specifically recommend any single method over another, because all of them can be effective when executed properly. Thus, choosing a method becomes largely a matter of personal taste.&#8221; NOTE: Chuck then suggested a few websites to explore, one of which was this one.</p>
<p><strong>5)</strong> You will read how effective or ineffective the current crop of dust-shakers perform, but there is another factor that works mightily against them &#8211; chamber lubricant. All Canon D-SLR&#8217;s are notorious for the over-the-top amount of lubricant that gets distributed on the sensor in the normal course of shooting. But it seems that more and more of the newer cams are copying Canon in this regard. We have heard and read many reports of this with the Nikon D3 and others. So even though the shakers can repel a lot of  loose dust on the sensor, it&#8217;s a constant battle when the lubricant starts building up again and actually glues the dust-bunnies in place.&#8221;</p>
<p class="alignright">[via <a href="http://www.copperhillimages.com/index.php?pr=tutorials" target="_blank">Copper Hill Images</a>]</p>
<p><br clear=all></p>
<div style="text-align: left; padding: 3px;">The first attempt at cleaning my sensor:</div>
<div style="text-align: left; padding: 3px;"><strong>BEFORE</strong></div>
<div style="text-align: left; padding: 3px;"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hlkljgk/3534535254/"><img style="border: solid 1px #999;margin:0;padding:4px" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2273/3534535254_02ee809154.jpg" alt="" /></a></div>
<p><strong>AFTER</strong><br />
<a title="A F T E R by hlkljgk, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hlkljgk/3534535132/"><img style="border: solid 1px #999;margin:0;padding:4px" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3014/3534535132_3d534a3e7e.jpg" alt="A F T E R" width="500" height="333" /></a><br />
There is still that &#8220;hair,&#8221; although in a &#8220;better&#8221; spot, and a few minor specks. But for my first attempt I&#8217;m pretty happy.</p>
<p>I used <a href="http://www.copperhillimages.com/index.php?pr=tutorials1">Copper hill Images Sensor Cleaning tools &amp; method</a>.</p>
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